Valve check, part II

This is just a short post. Easy...easy...

Part II of valve check, which is just how to check the valve clearance.

You'll need feeler gauges, patience, and decent light source. 

Once you have the valve cover off, rotate the crank so you have the piston in TDC (Top dead center). There are two ways to do this. One way is to remove a plastic plug in side cover and use a large allen wrench. Some models have the plastic plug. Mine, for some reason does not. (First bike I own that doesn't). So, option number two is to kick it in a gear (I went with 4th) and rock the rear wheel in the direction of travel (NEVER otherwise) until your piston reaches TDC. You'll have to remove at least one spark plug to be able to move the piston, otherwise you'd be fighting compression. You'll know that you reached TDC when the valves compress and release, and your camshaft sprocket marks line up. There are four marks, two on each sprocket. It's kinda hard to get the camera in there, but here is the best pic I could get. The marks have to be in line and parallel to the cylinder head. The position in this picture is WRONG (I only took it for illustrative purposes to show the marks). In the correct position, the marks will line up parallel to the head AND the bores (one hole in each) in the sprockets will be up top.

BMW calls for a special bolt to lock the crank at TDC, but being in gear, I did not feel this was necessary for checking the valves. If I were replacing shims, it would make me feel better to have the crank locked.

Next grab your feeler gauges. You'll need metric feelers. The range spec calls for 0.25-0.33mm on exhaust, and 0.03-0.11mm on intake. THESE SPECS ARE FOR THE TWINSPARK, SINGLE CYLINDER. Try the thickest feeler first, and go down from that until one slides in freely, with a little drag, but no binding.
Gauges insert easily from the inside, like this:

My valve clearances at 12k measured:
Exhaust: Left 0.28mm and Right 0.30mm
Intake: Left 0.06mm and Right 0.08mm

This is well within spec, so I'm leaving it alone.   

Now I just have to put everything back together, pop in some new sparkplugs, change the oil, and be set for the next few thousand miles.

I will probably do a post on reassembly, with torque specs.

Before I begin with reassembly, this is the CORRECT sprocket position when piston is at TDC. You want your sprockets to look like this when you check your valves - note the marks parallel to head, and the bore in sprockets on top.

Reassembly: 

After you clean your valve cover gasket and valve cover, slide the gasket into the slot in valve cover, put a little bit of oil over the seating area, and hold it in place with your fingers as you maneuver the cover back in place. Once there, reinstall your valve cover bolts. Make sure the gasket on the bolts and the seating area are clean. These bolts are torqued to 10nM. I use crisscross pattern when tightening, but I hand-tight all bolts first to prevent gasket from twisting.

Next, install you sparkplug coil leads. Note that there are two different leads, each one with its own voltage. Put them exactly where they came from. I marked mine, just in case I forget. Push on it until it snaps in place. 

 Next, install your air box stubble. I call it throttle body, but hey, whatever it is. Again, clean, put a little oil on the gasket (manifold) and insert the two torx bolts that fasten it in place. Just start the bolts, don't tighten them. With a pair of pliers (unless you have small enough hands to get in there), slide the hose on the chrome-plated pipe. No clamp goes on this one.  

 Next, insert the connector pictured here. Do it first, before you attach the fuel line. If you don't, you will have to take it apart again (don't ask me how I know). With the connector in place, slide the fuel line on and push it in place as you press the whole unit down. The hose will seat, and you can now hand-tighten the two bolts. These are torqued at 25nM.

 Make sure you reinstall and tighten the hose clamp on the fuel line. This is a pressurized line, so it is important. Next, connect the other two electrical connectors, insert your heat shield routing the throttle cable through the hole in it, install you battery tray, and your airbox. The rest is easy.

A note: I found some oil/gas residue on the stubble, right where the rubber manifold attaches. This was due to a loose hose clamp, allowing the engine to "breathe" in the wrong spot. I took the rubber part off, cleaned everything, and reassembled. 

 Also, while I was doing the valves, I changed my spark plugs. It's much easier to do when the bike is apart. Mine were still good, but last year I swamped my bike, so this was something I wanted to do anyway. Sparkplugs are easy to do, but if you are really into torque specs, the recommended one is 20nM.