About Me

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Henry Martin spends his nights writing fiction and poetry, which predominately deals with the often-overlooked aspects of humanity. He is the author of three novels: Escaping Barcelona, Finding Eivissa, and Eluding Reality; a short story collection, Coffee, Cigarettes, and Murderous Thoughts; and a poetry collection, The Silence Before Dawn. His most recent published project is a collection of Photostories in five volumes under the KSHM Project umbrella, for which he collaborated with Australian photographer Karl Strand, combining one of a kind images with short stories and vignettes. He is currently working on his next novel narrated in two opposing points of view. He lives with his family in the Northeast.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Rear End

In an earlier post Playing with fiberglass I started making my rear cowl. Since then, there was some shaping, some cutting, some sanding, and a whole bunch of messing around with various body fillers to make this thing look respectable.

I started with the cowl in its final shape, sanded with a 60 grit paper to provide for some 'bite' when applying body filler.

Next, the filler was laid. I used Evercoat Everglass  as the base layer, followed by Lite Weight body filler.

After too many sanding sessions to mention (yeah, I'm not a body-repair guy), I filled the sanding marks with a glazing putty, re-sanded everything with a 400 grit paper, and shot the cowl in SEM high build primer/surfacer. It seems that no matter what I do, there are always little pinholes or fine scratches, and the SEM high build primer is the best thing I found in a rattle can. Unlike the usual suspects from Dupli, this thing dries hard, yet remains flexible. Yes, it is sitting on a heater - it's winter here.

Next I had to align everything on the bike to start messing with turn signals and the taillight. Actually, the bulk of the sanding and filling was done on the bike, not only to provide a steady platform, but also to ensure the fillers would be applied in the final shape to prevent cracking during final assembly. (notice the fine sanding dust all over the shocks). The cowl attaches via four mounting points: two 6mm bolts at the cross brace, and two 10mm bolts (in this case turn signal posts) on the sides, where the original sissy bar attached.

My initial inclination was to use a Lucas-style taillight, but that would sit on top of the cowl (like on my CB750). Since I wanted to make this bike as short as possible without modifying the frame, I decided on a smaller, LED unit that tucks away underneath the cowl, and also serves as a license plate mount. To attach this, I used a section of a plastic fender (from my scrap pile) that attaches to the stock inner fender, further eliminating stresses on the cowl. Not that there is any need, this thing has some serious layers of fiberglass mat.  
The wet spots are from some last minute sanding :)

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Front end

Another week went by, and with the little time I have these days, progress is slow. Still, I actually have something to show for my effort.

Yesterday, I finally got my front fender and headlight bucket back from powdercoating. I've been waiting for these for a while, so having a little bit of time today, I decided to work on the front end.

First, the fender. (nothing to report, really. There is only so much that can be said about four 6mm bolts)


Then I started on the headlight bucket and wiring. This is where things got interesting. There are simply too many wires and connectors to fit inside the bucket, so after three or four tries of taking them in and out, positioning the loops in different ways, and scraping my knuckles in the tight spaces, I decided to wrap two connectors in an electrical tape and zip tie them under the ignition switch. I also zip tied the clutch cable to the instrument cluster bracket to make things a bit neater, and routed the clutch cable behind the radiator cover. (the PO had it melting on the exhaust). Inside the bucket, I left the wires necessary to run the headlight, horn, regulator connections, temp gauge connection, turn signals, etc. It is still a lot, but manageable.

As for turn signals, I went with small, single filament pieces, so I had two unused wires for the running lights which were stock on the bike. Since the old forktube sleeves/headlight mounts were beyond repair, I went ahead with simple universal mounts, and used the turn signal stems to attach the headlight bucket (both are 10mm). This is similar to what I did on my CB750 project.

Then, after testing all the connections and blowing a fuse (yeah, there was this one wire that went in the wrong hole...), I had a light. Turn signals were also tested, and worked well under load (both front and rear connected).

 Attaching the light to the bucket was a chore that drove me absolutely crazy, as the powdercoating created some thickness issues and nothing fit the way it used to. It was either that, or the ring was bent when I was not in my possession, because it literally took me over an hour to get things to seat as they should. And even then it was a tight fit.


 
  

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Electric fan on the CX 500

Last week, after many months of uncertainty whether the bike would actually run, I gave it a try. Yes, she is incomplete, but all the vital parts are already there.
At the second push of the starter button she came alive, a little hesitant, but alive. There was, however, an awkward sound coming from behind the radiator. Mind you, I had everything apart previously and looked over the mechanical fan many, many times to make sure there were no cracks. Well, it took the few minutes of running time for the fan to start causing trouble. I guess a thirty year old plastic is not up to the job anymore.

So, after taking the radiator off again, I discovered some play in the fan. Using the front axle (spindle) as a pulley, the fan came off. Upon closer inspection, I noticed a series of small cracks in the plastic, right around the aluminum collar. This called for a modification.

Searching the net, I found that many owners replaced their mechanical fans with electric fans, mostly off a Ducati. Having no Ducati fan around, I searched through my parts bins for whatever I might have that would work, and I came up with a good use fan off my spare KLR250 (one of the few parts I had left). Some quick checking, and I came up with a suitable location to mount the fan so it would allow for radiator reinstallation, and not interfere with anything in the way. There is not a whole lot of open space between the radiator and the engine.

I started drilling in the radiator mounts to attach some brackets that would hold the fan. As i was doing that, I thought it would be a good idea to use an aluminum plate behind the area to prevent damage to the core. Thought, however, travel faster than my hands, so by the time I finish the thought, the drill bit grabbed the bracket and pulled it out of my hand, landing a nice, 6mm hole in my core.

To repair or not to repair: Unfortunately, in my area, there are no radiator shops left, so i tried soldering it myself. Armed with a handheld torch, flux, and silver solder (actually, a plumbing solder, but they call it silver for some reason), I set to work. Everything went well, until I pressure tested the core, only to find a leak in the repaired area. I needed more heat, but I was hesitant so I would not sweat (and loosened)  the surrounding joints.

As I mulled the next step over, I happened to talk to a guy who not only had a spare radiator, but was willing to sell it to me. He is becoming my savior with this project, as he sold me a pair of ignition coils previously.  (mine had a ripped wire)

With the new-to-me radiator in hand, I decided not to repeat my past mistake, and I brought the radiator and the brackets to a welder who lives just down the road from me. Five minutes later the brackets were on and I could proceed with the electric fan installation.

Here is the fan attached to the radiator.  This is the only suitable location due to the fan's depth, especially the electric motor part. When mounted here, the motor fits next to the shaft into the cavity on right (facing forward) since the right cylinder is farther back, whereas the left cylinder is more forward. 
Next, I just had to bend the top brackets (on the radiator itself, where it attaches to the frame) slightly: left side in and right side out, which shifted the radiator off center by about 1/2" or less. The bottom right mount needed some of the rubber mount removed, again to shift the radiator off center slightly. This way, there is clearance between the new electric fan and all other parts. Doing this permitted me to use all existing mounting hardware and location (I did replace the rusty spacers though).  As an added bonus, removing the radiator cap has now become easier as well.   

Wiring was straight forward at this point; since the fan on the KLR also pulls air, there was no need to change polarity. I used a couple of water resistant connectors, with the ground attached to one of the mounting bolts. The hot wire, for now, remains unconnected, as I have yet to decide whether to bother with a thermo switch, or just use a toggle switch mounted on the radiator cover.

And, in this crappy pic, I attempted to show how the fan sits next to the shaft which powered the mechanical fan. There is plenty of clearance.

After all this, I filled the radiator with some distilled water with a little bit of vinegar, and started the bike again. Oh my, so this is what this engine sounds like. No more nasty sounds coming from behind the radiator. Now the bike makes all the right noises.

I also checked my charging system and it holds nice and steady at 14.3 V. Things are looking good.

Friday, February 10, 2012

Alpinestars Scout Boots Review

Over the years, I've owned numerous pairs of riding boots, and while some were better than others, they all did their job relatively well. By saying their job, I mean they kept my feet comfortable, they kept my feet dry, and they provided some protection.It wasn't until I started riding dirt, however, that protection climbed to the top of the list of features important to me. And this whole new chapter in my life - adventure riding - sent me looking for a new pair of boots.

For street riding and walking off the bike, I could not be happier with my Tourmaster Solutions boots as they kept me dry and comfortable. However, they offered only limited protection. For dirt riding, my Axo Prime boots saved my ankles more times than I can remember, but try walking in them and you'll soon discover those boots are not made for walking. The protection they offer is second to none, and standing on the pegs in them is very, very comfortable, but they take in water faster than a strainer. Since my current riding is, more often than not, a mix of street and dirt, I needed a pair of boots that will be both comfortable and waterproof, as well as featuring good protection. My search turned up several candidates, but based on my preferences, I narrowed my choices to either Alpinestars or Sidi. The preferences being quality, reputation, protection, comfort, waterproofing ability, and the ability to adjust the fit (I have skinny calves).   

In the end, price, availability, and the option to buy them locally, shifted the odds in favor of Alpinestars Scout Boots.

The boots arrived in a typical store box. Once opened, I removed the hard cardboard stuffing (kept the boots' shape) and tissue paper, and touched the boots for the first time. The leather feels very soft (yes, these boots are real leather). The boots utilize a three buckle closure system, combined with a Velcro top loop (there are no zippers to mess with). The buckles are made out of aluminum and hook securely with an audible click. The straps are micro-adjustable for the right fit, which is an important feature to me. If I can tailor the fit to my legs, then there is a lesser chance of the boot coming off during an accident.


The Scouts are not short boots by any means, checking in at 14" (Tourmaster Solution are 11.5" and the Axo Prime are 16"), but getting them on and off is very easy thanks to a generous opening.
 Once I slipped into them, I immediately noticed how great these boots feel. They fit like an old pair of sneakers right out of the box. There was no discomfort at all. After i adjusted the buckles, I went for a walk and encountered no restricting or awkward feeling. Likewise, sitting on the bike, and even standing on footpegs proved to be very natural.

The boots provide ample support in the footbed (I have arched feet) without any shifting when changing position, and the ankle protection is better than most. The shin plate appears to be reinforced as well, but all the protection is hidden from the view, as it is layered within the leather.

The buckles appear to be of good quality and fully serviceable should something break down the line. The soles are stitched, not glued, which should also prove better in terms of longevity. Overall, these boots are very well made, with stitching in all the important areas, and some double stitching to add style. Yet, the styling is subtle enough not to scream 'motorcycle' when off the bike.

Another great feature (to me) is the shape of the boots. When I tried them on, I was wearing simple Banana Republic khakis, and the pant leg fit comfortably over the boots. When, later on, I tried them with my Tourmaster riding pants, the result was the same. So, while these boots are great looking, one can comfortably wear pants over them when riding in rain.

So far, I have not tested how waterproof they are, but there are a plenty of reviews attesting to their ability to keep the rider's feet dry, so I have no doubts they will perform well. After owning many pairs of boots over the years, these Scouts are quickly becoming my favorite pair of boots, and will surely become my all around boots (short of trail riding) .

Here are a couple of pics of them next to the Axo Prime and the Tourmaster Solution boots. (Sorry, I can't keep the mud off the Axos long enough for a photo shoot).

Monday, February 6, 2012

Instead of working on the bike tonight, I played with the Duc exhaust I wanted to use on this project. While at it, I kinda got carried away and mocked things up a bit using the various parts from the various bikes I bought to complete this project. The side covers are from a C model, and I like them better than the square-ish D model covers. I like  where this is going. I'm still waiting for my front fender and headlight bucket to arrive back from powdercoating. Yes, still a ton of work to do....

I still have to make exhaust brackets to fit to where the passenger footpegs mounted, complete front brake rebuild, finish making the seat and reinforce the seat pan, finish the rear cowl.... and plenty more. But there has been some progress.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Carburetors

Old bikes usually come with old carburetors. Most of the machines I brought home over the years did not run, and 99% of the time the culprits were neglected carburetors. The set on my CX500 project was no exception. As you can see from this picture, the carburetors were leaking from the crossover pipe, underneath the cups, and down by the float bowls. 

Fortunately, rebuilding old carburetors is not a rocket science. All it requires is time, patience, and a little bit of money. Most old carbs have dried gaskets and clogged jets/passages, due to time and modern gasoline. The ethanol we are forced to consume does a number on carburetors, as the gasoline turns into something that doesn't even resemble gasoline very quickly.

First order of business was to take the carburetors apart for thorough cleaning.

As you can see, even the vacuum cups were covered in a gummy residue.

In the past, I always used solvents to clean these, but the carb cleaner is not the most innocent substance to play with. On my last carburetor rebuild, I tried using Pinesol as a cleaning agent, and while countless users and believers in its potency  claim excellent results, my attempt did not go as well as I was hoping. So, this time I tried something different - baking soda blasting. I do not own a blasting gun, and my compressor is rather small, but I used a two-feet length of vinyl hose and my duster gun. There are instructions online, so I'll spare you the details, but the simple setup essentially creates negative pressure to draw the baking soda up, where it mixes with the fast exiting compressed air. This is not the most efficient setup, but an easy, inexpensive one that actually works. I bought a 5lb box of baking soda at a local grocery store, attached my duster outfitted with the vinyl hose, and started at it. I quickly discovered that with my setup 80psi was just about ideal pressure. One word of caution: the soda gets everywhere, so I did this outside. The soda was gentle enough that I could hold the parts in my hand, yet potent enough to remove the nasty residue rather quickly. The next rain washed just about all of the excess off my yard. After blasting, I simply washed the parts in a stream of hot water and blew all passages with compressed air.
The results were excellent.
The soda removed everything except for some old liquid sealant and the aged factory finish, which was peeling off all over the float bowls and cups. These I lightly sanded and painted, to protect the exposed aluminum from future corrosion.

Then I took over the living room floor, and spread out all I needed to complete the task: New O-rings for the crossover pipe, new jets, float needles, gaskets, needles, O-rings and pilot screws, and air cut-off valves. Essentially almost everything that can be removed except for the butterflies and pressed-in pieces.

I also replaced all fasteners with new, stainless steel, buttonhead fasteners. Yes, I used split washers and anti-seize to prevent the future seizing of the stainless steel fasteners in the aluminum bodies.

First came rack assembly, along with fitting the crossover pipe with the new o-rings. That parts is a little tricky as everything has to align at the same time, but it was much easier on this set than on the CB750 carbs I did last time (unlike the CB, on this set there is actually ample room to play with the various parts).  After that, I fitted new jets (I stuck with stock sizes for the time being) and float needles, checked the float level, and continued with the assembly.
And voila...carbs are back together ready to be installed and synched. (I have a CarbTune for that).

Playing with fiberglass

My first adventure with fiberglass came about when I needed to make a rear cowl for my CB750F project. At that time I was unhappy with the so-called cafe cowls available for that bike, and decided to make one myself. In the end, after countless hours full of bad fumes and aggravation, I spent more money on resin and cloth than what I would have had I just bought a ready made cowl.  But, I learned something new, and even though I vowed never to play with fiberglass again, here we are today.

This time, having the limited experience I gained by making the first one, I took more time in prepping the area, molding the final shape, and cutting my cloth and mat to size before starting. I also learned how to mix the resin and how much I was going to use, so this was helpful. In the end, temperature was also in my favor, being the usual January cold. The polyester resin sets real fast in the summer, so doing it this past weekend had its advantages.

I started by removing everything off the subframe and taping the subframe off with painters' tape. In the past, I made the mistake of using foam and aluminum foil, which ended up melting into the foam when the resin heated up. This time it was cardboard only (old shipping boxes), and tape.
I decided to incorporate both the rear inner fender and the seat latch into my design. Of course, the fender had to be shortened a bit, but it works.
Given my desire to use the seat latch, I first made a seat pan from only two layers of fiberglass cloth - to be reinforced later - following the contours of the subframe.
The reason for this is that the subframe is actually curved and the only option other than raising the frame to become level, is to copy its shape. I will be making my own seat, probably recessed into the curve, in near future.
I then added the basic shape of the cowl. The tire is there just so I could get some proportion (it is a front tire)
Once attached to the subframe, I needed to both reinforce the single-layer glass, and to shape it so it would attach to the crossmember under the latch. The shaping was done using old cardboard boxes. Don't judge my mat work from this picture, as I used way too much. I'd rather cut away than run short.

Where the bolts are, eventually the turn signal stalks will be used to attach it to the subframe. The second attachment point will be under the seat latch to the crossmember.
Here it is with the excess cut off.
The rear is shaped like that to accept a taillight/license plate mount. I still have a ton of work with final shaping and cutting, and sanding, and....

I already started on that, but don't have any pictures yet.