A greenhouse project, part III

I completely forgot about making a final post in the greenhouse project saga. Other than finishing the windows, making doors from recycled fiberglass doors and some scrap polycarbonate, sealing all gaps, and installing the roofing, I made some diagonal braces to keep everything nice and strong. Inside, I made raised beds from concrete block (4x8x16) and a walkway from concrete pavers.

Well, it's done. Actually, it's been done for a few days, and my seedling (that, until recently, occupied every window in my house) are happy in the new greenhouse.

For the time being, all the windows are insulated, but I have left a small gap between the roof material (polycarbonate by Suntuf) and the wood. I have to find a suitable expanding foam to seal all those little openings, as the closure strips from the manufacturer leave a plenty of room for air to pass through. Still, the temp in the greenhouse is considerably warmer than the outside air, even on an overcast day like today.

The local Suntuf dealer (Home Depot) did not have the ridge caps, so I ended up using aluminum flashing to cover the ridge.

Here is to a happy, extended growing season.

Motoracks luggage racks for WR250R - a review Part II

This is an update to my initial review of Moto-racks.com luggage racks for the WR250R.

Here are some additional installation picks, namely all the bolt locations with the stock passenger footpegs in place (my initial review did not feature the footpegs), and the top bracket bolt that goes through the subframe.

My overall impressions:

The racks are much lighter than what I expected them to be, yet a plenty strong. While there is some flex under force (which is a good thing when the bike takes a nap), the racks did not bend (change shape) with my limited testing. I moved the bike around using the racks as a grab bar, and they held up without any movement to alignment or angles.

These racks not only look good, but seem to be everything I was looking for.

Now it's time to get some luggage. 

Motoracks luggage racks for WR250R - a review

Many WR250R riders who have discovered the diversity the little Japanese beast has to offer are taking their bikes on longer trips, exploring the dirty side of the world. I am no exception. In fact, I sold my BMW 650GS because it was hardly ridden since I got my little WR250R. Don't be fooled by the humble 250cc motor in this puppy - with a few changes, the bike is more than capable of long distance touring.

With this in mind, I spent this past winter making the necessary modifications to turn my WR into a long distance, do-all weapon. The only thing left to do was to select a suitable luggage.

Like many other WR250R owners, I was rather disappointed when Wolfman stopped offering their luggage racks for the WR. Now that they are made of unobtanium, their prices skyrocketed (that is, if you can find a set). I was of the opinion that the Wolfman setup was the best option for the WR, as most other racks on the market are either too large or too weak.  But wait a minute, NOW there is a new kid on the block, made by the trusted Moto-racks company in Vermont.

When I first learned that Moto-racks were considering making a set for the WR250R (and X), I was excited. Little did I know that I would become the first customer to receive the first production set made for our bikes.

Today, the package arrived.I must say, there were more newspapers than anything else, but it made for an increased anticipation as I worked my way through the pile.

And this is what came out from all that packaging: Two racks (wrapped in plastic bags), a bracket, and a bag of bolts.

The racks are finished in smooth, satin-finish black powdercoat, and every surface (including all welds) is coated well. Corners, edges, loops . . . all passed my careful inspection.

Wasting no time, I started on the install. First, I tackled the left side (all three bolts of it). My bike does not have passenger footpegs on it, so it was very easy.
There is one bolt at the top that goes into a nut welded to the subframe. You'll see it there, installed from the factory (where the helmet lock should be).  It is threaded already, so just grab the bolt and go for it. Finger tight only at this point.

Next, you have two lower bolts that attach where the passenger footpeg should be (or is, if you did not remove yours). Again, finger tight until it all lines up.

Now that you have it all lined up, grab your wrench (or a tool of choice) and tighten all three bolts. I use blue Loctite on mine, because I like my bolts to stay put no matter what vibrations I put the bike through.

Side shot.

On the right side, the installation is slightly more complicated (by two extra bolts).

First, you need to install a bracket (provided in the package) that links two mounting points together. The exhaust side does not have a gusset welded in like the left side does, so this bracket does two things: Allows for mounting of the rack, and reinforces the subframe at the weakest point.
First bolt is right next to the exhaust mount. Use a washer and a nut.

Next is the underside mount. The 8mm bolt goes through a hole in the subframe, and the bracket is offset with an aluminum spacer (also provided). I have done this without removing the rear fender. Just slide the nut between the fender and the subframe, hold it in place until you start the bolt, then use an open wrench to hold while tightening. Again, all bolts fingertight until you know it all lines up.

The actual rack mounts to the extra hole in the bracket.

Next come the two lower bolts that attach to the passenger footpeg mounts. If you do not have your footpegs in place, you will need a pair of washers to offset the rack from the mount, as there is a bolt head between the two holes. This bolt head stick out a little above the mounting surface.

Again, one it is all lined up, tighten your bolts. This rack really hugs the exhaust, and does not stick out too much.

 And a side shot.

  Here is what the racks look like from behind.

And each side from the front.

The installation was pain-free and straightforward. I will admit that I have used different bolts than what Moto-racks provided (I love stainless steel buttonhead bolts), but the installation process would have been the same regardless of this.

The fit and finish are first class. All holes lined up where they should have, there was no need to force anything, and no part of either rack rubs against anything on the bike. I have had more trouble with Touratech installations than with this one :)

I will give these racks a shakedown on some rough trails as soon as I can, but they are well-made and a plenty stout for anything I would be willing to throw on the bike.

And the best part: The racks are made right here in Vermont, USA. By purchasing their racks, you are supporting a small business that spends its income in the community; not a multinational corporation that parks its profits in some tax haven.

To find out more about these racks, or racks for other advnture bikes, visit moto-racks.com


Moto-racks also offers several luggage choices for the adventure rider, so you can get all you need in one place. Luggage 

A greenhouse project, part 2

The weather in the Northeast has changed for the better, and I could finally resume work on the greenhouse project.

It's been a busy week.

First, I dug the holes for the posts foundation. I actually snowblowed all the snow away from the site a few weeks ago, so with the warmer weather the ground thawed nicely. I went with eight 4ft deep holes filled with concrete (block, dry stacked, and poured solid). While the concrete was still wet, I inserted sill bolts and waited two days for everything to cure nicely.

With the concrete set, I built a frame from pressure-treated lumber (4x4 beams), which was then bolted to the posts. This is the only PT lumber I'm using, as I do not want to chemicals in my soil or food.

With the foundation done, I moved my four framed walls from the garage to the site, and set them in place. These were first stained, and later screwed to the PT base with 5" long stainless steel screws (#10) every foot, and to each other at corners.

Originally, I planned on making a 12 pitch roof, centered on the greenhouse. But then I decided against it, as I would have to build a pretty substantial header above the door. So, the roof shifted off center, with the south side being an 8 pitch, and the north side being around 15. The south side receives sun from early morning on, so the larger roof area will help with heating the greenhouse.

The north side roof framed

The "purlins" to support the polycarbonate roof pannels"

With that done, I inserted the recycled windows. All the frames I made for the windows worked out fine, with just a little gap between the wood and the windows to allow for expansion. All these will be sealed with silicone. Here are pics of the different sides (the windows being recycled, I went with whatever sizes I could get - the font two large windows are actually inserts from French doors):

Next, I'll have to make some cross-ties between the rafters, which will not only make sure the roof stays solid, but also provide support for hanging baskets. Then it's sealing the windows to make them weather-tight, and start working on the roof. So far, I'm leaving the gables open. I'm looking for a few more windows to fill that space, but if I won't find any, I'll frame it and cover it with some cedar siding.

To be continued...